|

 
67834
Weight: 37.5 DWT ( 58.32 grams) Comes Set With Quantity Stone:
4 0.013 Ct -- 1.4-1.45 MM, GH-SI1 Round Diamond Round
34 0.017 Ct -- 1.5-1.55 MM, GH-SI1 Round Diamond Round
266 0.022 Ct -- 1.6-1.7 MM, GH-SI1 Round Diamond Round
360 0.026 Ct -- 1.7-1.8 MM, GH-SI1 Round Diamond Round
67834 / 18K White / 15 1/4 CT TW / Polished / DIAMOND BANGLE BRACELET
Item #: 67834:100:P
$27,347.26
   
67338 / 14K White / 3/4 CT TW / Polished / DIAMOND BANGLE BRACELET
Item #: 67338:102:P
Comes Set With
Quantity Stone
27 0.028 Ct -- 1.9 MM, I1 Round Diamond
$2,298.20 each
   
67336 / 14K White / 2 1/4 CT TW / Polished / DIAMOND BANGLE BRACELET
Comes Set With
Quantity Stone
120 0.019 Ct -- 1.7 MM, I1 Round Diamond
$3,174.84 each
 
68336 / 14K White/Yellow / 1 CT TW / Polished / TWO TONE DIAMOND BANGLE BRACELET
Comes Set With
Quantity Stone
42 0.006 Ct -- 1.1 MM, I1 Round Diamond
93 0.008 Ct -- 1.2 MM, I1 Round Diamond
$5,047.87

67504 / 18K White / 12CTTW SI1,GH 7 1/4" / Polished / DIAMOND TENNIS BRACELET
Comes Set With
Quantity Stone
36 04.30 MM (04.04 - 04.45) Full Cut, SI1 ROUND FULL CUT G-H GENUINE DIAMOND
$43,689.85
  
67416 / 18K White / 9CTTW SI1,GH 7 1/4" / Polished / DIAMOND TENNIS BRACELET
Comes Set With
Quantity Stone
39 04.10 MM (03.90 - 04.20) Full Cut, SI1 ROUND FULL CUT G-H GENUINE DIAMOND
$30,597.75

67046 / 18K White / 8 7/8 CT TW / Polished / DIAMOND BRACELET
Comes Set With
Quantity Stone
59 03.00 MM (2.88 - 3.18) Princess, SI1 SQUARE PRINCESS G-H GENUINE DIAMOND
$23,375.69

Enhanced New Fancy Color
DIAMONDS: IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT / SI ROUND FULL CUT GENUINE DIAMONDS
now available in these colours:
TEAL BLUE
YELLOW
AQUA BLUE
DARK GREEN
APPLE GREEN
BURNT ORANGE
GARNET RED
BLACK STANDARD
PURPLE
   
   
   
ESCOMPTES en MAGASIN:
Shape MM Size Size Ct Color Quality Cut Unique
Attribute Availability Wgt Price/Ct Est. Price
Square 1.00 CT (.90 - 1.17) YELLOW SI Princess IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In Stock
1.0500 $8,342.50 $8,759.63
Square 1.00 CT (.90 - 1.17) TEAL BLUE SI Princess IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In
Stock 1.0500 $8,342.50 $8,759.63
Round 1.00 CT (.90 - 1.17) TEAL BLUE SI Full Cut IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In Stock
1.0500 $6,932.50 $7,279.13
Round 1.00 CT (.90 - 1.17) YELLOW SI Full Cut IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In Stock
1.0500 $6,932.50 $7,279.13
Square .75 CT (.70 - .89) YELLOW SI Princess IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In Stock
0.7500 $4,817.50 $3,613.13
Square .75 CT (.70 - .89) TEAL BLUE SI Princess IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In Stock
0.7500 $4,817.50 $3,613.13
Round .75 CT (.70 - .89) 3/4 YELLOW SI Full Cut IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In Stock
0.7500 $4,488.50 $3,366.38
Round .75 CT (.70 - .89) 3/4 TEAL BLUE SI Full Cut IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In
Stock 0.7500 $4,488.50 $3,366.38
Round .50 CT (.45 - .69) 1/2 TEAL BLUE SI Full Cut IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In
Stock 0.5500 $3,854.00 $2,119.70
Round .50 CT (.45 - .69) 1/2 YELLOW SI Full Cut IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In Stock
0.5500 $3,854.00 $2,119.70
Square .50 CT (.45 - .69) YELLOW SI Princess IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In Stock
0.5500 $3,854.00 $2,119.70
Square .50 CT (.45 - .69) TEAL BLUE SI Princess IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In Stock
0.5500 $3,854.00 $2,119.70
Round 03.80 MM (03.55 - 04.00) .20 CT (.18 - .22) 1/5 PINK SI Full Cut
IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In Stock 0.2000 $8,131.00 $1,626.20
Round .37 CT (.37 - .44) 3/8 YELLOW SI Full Cut IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In Stock
0.4100 $3,090.25 $1,267.00
Round .37 CT (.37 - .44) 3/8 TEAL BLUE SI Full Cut IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In
Stock 0.4100 $3,090.25 $1,267.00
Shape MM Size Size Ct Color Quality Cut Unique Attribute Availability Wgt
Price/Ct Est. Price
Square 04.00 MM (3.88 - 4.20) .37 CT (.37 - .44) YELLOW SI Princess IRRADIATED
AND/OR HPHT In Stock 0.3750 $2,890.50 $1,083.94
Square 04.00 MM (3.88 - 4.20) .37 CT (.37 - .44) TEAL BLUE SI Princess
IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In Stock 0.3750 $2,890.50 $1,083.94
ROUND - BLACK 05.80 - 06.80 MM 1.00 CT (.9490 - 1.170) 1 BLACK STANDARD Full Cut
COLOR ENHANCED In Stock 1.0500 $963.50 $1,011.68
Round 03.40 MM (03.24 - 03.54) .15 CT (.135 - .174) 1/6 PINK SI Full Cut
IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In Stock 0.1500 $6,744.50 $1,011.68
Round 04.30 MM (04.04 - 04.45) .33 CT (.29 - .36) 1/3 YELLOW SI Full Cut
IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In Stock 0.3300 $2,714.25 $895.70
Round 04.30 MM (04.04 - 04.45) .33 CT (.29 - .36) 1/3 TEAL BLUE SI Full Cut
IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In Stock 0.3300 $2,714.25 $895.70
Square 03.75 MM (3.68 - 3.87) YELLOW SI Princess IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In Stock
0.3100 $2,737.75 $848.70
Square 03.75 MM (3.68 - 3.87) TEAL BLUE SI Princess IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In
Stock 0.3100 $2,737.75 $848.70
Round 03.80 MM (03.55 - 04.00) .20 CT (.18 - .22) 1/5 AQUA BLUE SI Full Cut
IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In Stock 0.2000 $3,619.00 $723.80
Round 03.20 MM (03.11 - 03.23) .12 CT (.115 - .134) 1/8 PINK SI Full Cut
IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In Stock 0.1200 $5,710.50 $685.26
Square 03.50 MM (3.38 - 3.67) YELLOW SI Princess IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In Stock
0.2500 $2,667.25 $666.81
Square 03.50 MM (3.38 - 3.67) TEAL BLUE SI Princess IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In
Stock 0.2500 $2,667.25 $666.81
Round 04.10 MM (03.90 - 04.20) .25 CT (.23 - .28) 1/4 TEAL BLUE SI Full Cut
IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In Stock 0.2500 $2,538.00 $634.50
Round 04.10 MM (03.90 - 04.20) .25 CT (.23 - .28) 1/4 YELLOW SI Full Cut
IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In Stock 0.2500 $2,538.00 $634.50
ROUND - BLACK 05.20 - 05.90 MM .75 CT (.6990 - .8980) 3/4 BLACK STANDARD Full
Cut COLOR ENHANCED In Stock 0.7500 $822.50 $616.88
Shape MM Size Size Ct Color Quality Cut Unique Attribute Availability Wgt
Price/Ct Est. Price
Round 03.00 MM (02.81 - 03.10) .10 CT (.088 - .114) 1/10 PINK SI Full Cut
IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In Stock 0.1000 $5,710.50 $571.05
Square 03.25 MM (3.19 - 3.37) TEAL BLUE SI Princess IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In
Stock 0.2300 $2,244.25 $516.18
Round 02.80 MM (02.74 - 02.80) .08 CT (.077 - .087) PINK SI Full Cut IRRADIATED
AND/OR HPHT In Stock 0.0800 $5,710.50 $456.84
Round 03.80 MM (03.55 - 04.00) .20 CT (.18 - .22) 1/5 YELLOW SI Full Cut
IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In Stock 0.2000 $2,244.25 $448.85
Round 03.80 MM (03.55 - 04.00) .20 CT (.18 - .22) 1/5 TEAL BLUE SI Full Cut
IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In Stock 0.2000 $2,244.25 $448.85
Round 03.40 MM (03.24 - 03.54) .15 CT (.135 - .174) 1/6 AQUA BLUE SI Full Cut
IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In Stock 0.1500 $2,937.50 $440.63
Round 03.40 MM (03.24 - 03.54) .15 CT (.135 - .174) 1/6 PURPLE SI Full Cut
IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In Stock 0.1500 $2,937.50 $440.63
Round 03.80 MM (03.55 - 04.00) .20 CT (.18 - .22) 1/5 APPLE GREEN SI Full Cut
IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In Stock 0.2000 $2,185.50 $437.10
Round 03.80 MM (03.55 - 04.00) .20 CT (.18 - .22) 1/5 GARNET RED SI Full Cut
IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In Stock 0.2000 $2,185.50 $437.10
ROUND - BLACK 04.50 - 05.50 MM .50 CT (.4490 - .6980) 1/2 BLACK STANDARD Full
Cut COLOR ENHANCED In Stock 0.5500 $740.25 $407.14
Round 03.80 MM (03.55 - 04.00 .20 CT (.18 - .22) 1/5 DARK GREEN SI Full Cut
IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In Stock 0.2000 $1,762.50 $352.50
Round 03.80 MM (03.55 - 04.00) .20 CT (.18 - .22) 1/5 BURNT ORANGE SI Full Cut
IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In Stock 0.2000 $1,762.50 $352.50
Round 03.20 MM (03.11 - 03.23) .12 CT (.115 - .134) 1/8 AQUA BLUE SI Full Cut
IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In Stock 0.1200 $2,608.50 $313.02
Round 03.20 MM (03.11 - 03.23) .12 CT (.115 - .134) 1/8 PURPLE SI Full Cut
IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In Stock 0.1200 $2,596.75 $311.61
Square 03.00 MM (2.88 - 3.18) YELLOW SI Princess IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In Stock
0.1700 $1,797.75 $305.62
Shape MM Size Size Ct Color Quality Cut Unique Attribute Availability Wgt
Price/Ct Est. Price
Square 03.00 MM (2.88 - 3.18) TEAL BLUE SI Princess IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In
Stock 0.1700 $1,797.75 $305.62
ROUND - BLACK 04.30 - 04.70 MM .37 CT (.3790 - .4480) 3/8 BLACK STANDARD Full
Cut COLOR ENHANCED In Stock 0.4100 $705.00 $289.05
Round 02.70 MM (02.51 - 02.73) .07 CT (.067 - .076) PINK SI Full Cut IRRADIATED
AND/OR HPHT In Stock 0.0700 $3,983.25 $278.83
Round 03.40 MM (03.24 - 03.54) .15 CT (.135 - .174) 1/6 APPLE GREEN SI Full Cut
IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In Stock 0.1500 $1,821.25 $273.19
Round 03.40 MM (03.24 - 03.54) .15 CT (.135 - .174) 1/6 GARNET RED SI Full Cut
IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In Stock 0.1500 $1,821.25 $273.19
Round 03.00 MM (02.81 - 03.10) .10 CT (.088 - .114) 1/10 AQUA BLUE SI Full Cut
IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In Stock 0.1000 $2,608.50 $260.85
Round 03.00 MM (02.81 - 03.10) .10 CT (.088 - .114) 1/10 PURPLE SI Full Cut
IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In Stock 0.1000 $2,596.75 $259.68
Round 02.50 MM (02.44 - 02.50) .06 CT (.056 - .066) PINK SI Full Cut IRRADIATED
AND/OR HPHT In Stock 0.0600 $3,983.25 $239.00
Round 03.40 MM (03.24 - 03.54) .15 CT (.135 - .174) 1/6 TEAL BLUE SI Full Cut
IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In Stock 0.1500 $1,527.50 $229.13
Round 03.40 MM (03.24 - 03.54) .15 CT (.135 - .174) 1/6 YELLOW SI Full Cut
IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In Stock 0.1500 $1,527.50 $229.13
ROUND - BLACK 04.00 - 04.50 MM .33 CT (.2890 - .3780) 1/3 BLACK STANDARD Full
Cut COLOR ENHANCED In Stock 0.3300 $669.75 $221.02
Round 03.40 MM (03.24 - 03.54) .15 CT (.135 - .174) 1/6 DARK GREEN SI Full Cut
IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In Stock 0.1500 $1,445.25 $216.79
Round 03.40 MM (03.24 - 03.54) .15 CT (.135 - .174) 1/6 BURNT ORANGE SI Full Cut
IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In Stock 0.1500 $1,445.25 $216.79
Round 02.80 MM (02.74 - 02.80) .08 CT (.077 - .087) AQUA BLUE SI Full Cut
IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In Stock 0.0800 $2,608.50 $208.68
Round 02.80 MM (02.74 - 02.80) .08 CT (.077 - .087) PURPLE SI Full Cut
IRRADIATED AND/OR HPHT In Stock 0.0800 $2,596.75 $207.74
| |
With the announcement in March 1999 by General
Electric and Lazare Kaplan International (LKI) at color-improved
High Pressure-High Temperature (HPHT)-treated diamonds were
hitting the market, the major gemological laboratories in Europe
and the U.S. launched a surge of research initiatives. In fact,
from the fall of 1999 to the winter of 2000, there were articles
on HPHT-treated diamonds in each of six consecutive issues of
the GIA journal Gems & Gemology.
In an effort to determine how best to identify HPHT-treated
diamonds, the De Beers organization has also been very active in
researching the HPHT diamond annealing process. This work is a
collaboration between the Diamond Trading Company (DTC) Research
Centre, Maidenhead, United Kingdom, and De Beers Industrial
Diamonds’ Laboratory in Johannesburg, South Africa. The
Maidenhead laboratory’s sophisticated spectroscopic equipment
and expertise in characterization, combined with the
Johannesburg laboratory’s access to industrial diamond synthesis
presses and expertise in high-pressure engineering, has led to
substantial progress.
Detailed characterization research carried out at the DTC
Research Centre and at some of the major gemological
laboratories has led to the discovery of a number of features
that can indicate HPHT treatment. Techniques include
ultraviolet/visible and infrared absorption spectroscopy and,
most importantly, laser-excited photoluminescence (PL)
spectroscopy, which requires the sample to be cooled with liquid
nitrogen to a temperature of –196°C.
The latter technique is particularly important for type II
diamonds because it is such a highly sensitive technique. Type
II diamonds are very pure and highly sensitive measurements are
required to detect the very low concentrations of defects that
they contain. Several of the major gem-testing laboratories have
invested in this sophisticated PL equipment and are therefore in
a position to identify the vast majority of HPHT-treated
diamonds.
Inventing the Tools
One of the roles of the DTC Research Centre, in support of the
De Beers Gem Defensive Programme , is to assist gem-testing
laboratories by developing practical instruments to deal with
complex identification problems. To this end, a low-cost,
easy-to-use instrument, currently in prototype form, is being
developed for rapid screening of potentially HPHT- treated type
II diamonds . This instrument will not replace the sophisticated
laboratory equipment but it will greatly reduce the number of
stones that will need to be examined in such a time-consuming
way.
Another role of the DTC Gem Defensive Programme is to anticipate
future developments in treatment techniques (and also diamond
synthesis techniques) that could challenge current
identification methods, and to research new techniques that will
continue to enable reliable identification to take place.
Initially, research both by De Beers and the major gemological
laboratories concentrated on areas of current commercial
concern. In this area, detection criteria have been firmly
established.
The initial work has now developed into investigation of wider
ranges of starting material, and treatment conditions in which
identification may be more subtle. This forward-looking research
is currently a very active area for De Beers scientists.
No Magic Box
So where do we stand at present in terms of the practicalities
of detection? There certainly is no magic “black box” that can
tell an HPHT- treated stone from an untreated stone with 100
percent accuracy. But this would be an unrealistic expectation.
Apart from the relatively trivial task of distinguishing
diamonds from simulants, no gemological identification task can
be achieved with a single, simple, fully automatic technique.
The question is, can procedures and, where appropriate,
instrumentation be developed that will allow sufficient numbers
of stones to be examined cost effectively so as to address the
concerns of the trade?
The sophisticated PL equipment that is now in use in the major
gem laboratories can identify the vast majority of HPHT- treated
diamonds but there will always be a small proportion for which
the identification is uncertain. There will also be a small
proportion of untreated stones that may be misidentified as
treated. With a material as complex and varied as natural
diamond such problems are inevitable.
Is the PL equipment so expensive and the measurement so time
consuming as to be of little use in practice? It is certainly
true that the need to make such measurements has greatly
increased the workload of gem laboratories and has led to
increased delays in having stones graded. But practical means of
screening diamonds to reduce the number that need to be looked
at in detail are being developed and implemented in grading
laboratories. The fact that laboratories are willing to invest
in such equipment demonstrates their determination to achieve
the best results possible and so maintain the integrity of
natural, untreated diamonds.
Will future developments in treatments invalidate the
identification techniques? The honest answer, of course, is that
one cannot be sure. But both De Beers and those gem laboratories
that carry out research are committing considerable resources to
address this issue. Three years ago, HPHT treatment was
generally believed to be undetectable. The fact that this is
certainly not the case today demonstrates what can be achieved
in a relatively short time by dedicated research.
Practical Advice
What practical advice can be offered to the trade to help
identify potentially HPHT-treated diamonds? Fancy yellow,
greenish-yellow, pink and blue diamonds need to be referred to a
suitably equipped gem-testing laboratory. For greenish-yellow
diamonds, intense green fluorescence isa good indication that
the stone may be HPHT treated but, ultimately, laboratory
examination will be required.
Colorless and near-colorless diamonds should first be checked to
see if they are transparent to ultraviolet (UV) radiation, and
are therefore likely to be type II. This is accomplished using a
short-wave UV lamp and a UV- sensitive phosphor — simple
equipment that is commercially available. Colorless and
near-colorless diamonds that are UV transparent should be
referred to a suitably equipped gem-testing laboratory.
What about diamonds that are too small to be cost effectively
submitted to a gem-testing laboratory? Colorless and
near-colorless stones can still be checked to see if they are UV
transparent or opaque. Those that are UV opaque will be type I
and therefore unlikely to have been treated. Forthe very small
proportion of diamonds that are UV transparent and therefore
likely to be type II, the only realistic option is to insist
upon a written declaration from the supplier that the stones are
natural and untreated. For fancy yellow, greenish-yellow, pink
and blue diamonds, the same written declaration should be
insisted upon.
The Rules
In the U.S., the Federal Trade Commission Guides §23.22 state
that “it is unfair or deceptive to fail to disclose that a
gemstone has been treated if … the treatment has a significant
effect on the stone’s value. The seller should disclose that the
gemstone has been treated. Note to §23.22: The disclosures
outlined in this section are applicable to sellers at every
level of the trade.”
The rules of the International Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO)
state in Article 6.1 of the CIBJO Diamond Book that “if the
natural color of a diamond has been artificially altered, it has
to be clearly declared as ‘treated,’ ‘artificially colored, or
‘irradiated.’”
In support of this position, the DTC requires all its
sightholders to abide by its Best Practice Principles, which
state, “We are committed to the highest industry ethics
including the following: …full disclosure at all levels of the
diamond distribution chain and, most importantly, to consumers,
of all treatments to natural diamonds and compliance with rules,
regulations and guidelines published from time to time by the
diamond industry’s governing bodies.”
How HPHT Works
Brown diamonds, both type I and type II, as part of their
geological history have been subjected to mechanical stresses at
elevated temperatures while deep within the earth. This causes
their crystal lattices to become deformed — a process known as
plastic deformation. This process introduces linear defects into
the crystal, which are known as dislocations. The brown color is
associated with the presence of these dislocations.
When the diamond crystal is subjected to very high temperatures,
the structure of the dislocations is modified, causing the brown
coloration to be reduced. At these very high temperatures,
diamonds will convert to graphite unless very high pressure is
applied. This is done using the same kind of equipment as is
used for diamond synthesis, e.g., the conventional “belt”
presses developed by General Electric, the cubic or prismatic
presses used by NovaTech or the BARS presses developed in
Russia. Such equipment is complex and relatively expensive.
Typical HPHT conditions can be in excess of 2000ºC and 60,000
atmospheres. Use of such extreme conditions is not without its
dangers. Diamonds with inclusions and fractures can be broken
and surfaces can become frosted and pitted.
Type I diamonds contain nitrogen as a major impurity, typically
present at levels of several hundred parts per million. Type II
diamonds are extremely pure, with nitrogen concentrations of
less than about one part per million. A very small proportion of
type II diamonds are classified as type IIb, due to the presence
of trace amounts of boron impurities, which give rise to a blue
color. In type IIa diamonds (i.e., those type II diamonds that
are not type IIb), if the brown coloration is reduced
sufficiently by HPHT treatment, the result is a colorless,
near-colorless or sometimes a pink diamond.
Less than 1 percent of natural diamonds are type II of adequate
quality to be suitable for HPHT treatment. In brown or
brownish-gray type IIb diamonds, which are of course extremely
rare, a pale blue color can be produced by HPHT treatment. In
brown type I diamonds, HPHT treatment produces particular
nitrogen-containing defects which give rise to a fancy yellow to
greenish-yellow color, often with strong green fluorescence. |
|
Diamond enhancements are specific treatments, performed on natural diamonds
(usually those already cut and polished into gems), which are designed to
improve the gemological characteristics — and therefore the value — of the stone
in one or more ways. These include clarity treatments such as laser drilling to
remove inclusions, application of sealants to fill cracks, color treatments to
improve a white diamond's color grade, and treatments to give fancy color to a
white or off-color diamond.
The CIBJO and government agencies such as the United States Federal Trade
Commission explicitly require the disclosure of most diamond treatments at the
time of sale. Some treatments, particularly those applied to clarity, remain
highly controversial within the industry — this arises from the traditional
notion that diamond holds a unique or "sacred" place among the gemstones, and
should not be treated too radically, if for no other reason than a fear of
damaging consumer confidence.
Treated diamonds usually trade at a significant discount to untreated diamonds.
This is due to several factors, including relative scarcity — a much larger
number of stones can be treated to reach gem quality than are found naturally
occurring in a gem quality state — and the potential impermanence of various
treatments. Therefore, it is unusual to see a diamond with good overall
gemological characteristics undergo treatment. Diamonds which are chosen for
treatment are usually those that would be otherwise difficult to sell as gem
diamonds, where inclusions or fractures noticeably detract from the beauty of
the diamond to even casual observers. In these cases, the loss in value due to
treating the diamond is more than offset by the value added by the mitigating of
obvious flaws.
Color enhancementsSee also: diamond color
This section needs additional citations for verification.
Please help improve this article by adding reliable references. Unsourced
material may be challenged and removed. (July 2010)
Generally there are three major methods to artificially alter the color of a
diamond: irradiation with high-energy subatomic particles; the application of
thin films or coatings; and the combined application of high pressure and high
temperature (HPHT). However, there is recent evidence that fracture filling is
not only used to improve clarity, but that it can be used for the sole purpose
to change the color into a more desirable color as well.[1]
The first two methods can only modify color, usually to turn an off-color Cape
series stone (see Material properties of diamond: Composition and color) into a
more desirable fancy-colored stone. Because some irradiation methods produce
only a thin "skin" of color, they are applied to diamonds that are already cut
and polished. Conversely, HPHT treatment is used to modify and remove color from
either rough or cut diamonds—but only certain diamonds are treatable in this
manner. Irradiation and HPHT treatments are usually permanent insofar as they
will not be reversed under normal conditions of jewelry use, whereas thin films
are impermanent.
[edit] Irradiation
Pure diamonds, before and after irradiation and annealing. Clockwise from left
bottom: 1) Initial (2×2 mm) 2-4) Irradiated by different doses of 2-MeV
electrons 5-6) Irradiated by different doses and annealed at 800 °C.Sir William
Crookes, a gem connoisseur as well as a chemist and physicist, was the first to
discover radiation's effects on diamond color when in 1904 he conducted a series
of experiments using radium salts. Diamonds enveloped in radium salt slowly
turned a dark green; this color was found to be localized in blotchy patches,
and it did not penetrate past the surface of the stone. The emission of alpha
particles by the radium was responsible. Unfortunately radium treatment also
left the diamond strongly radioactive, to the point of being unwearable.[2] A
diamond octahedron so treated was donated by Crookes to the British Museum in
1914, where it remains today: it has lost neither its color nor radioactivity.
Presently diamonds are safely irradiated in four ways: proton and deuteron
bombardment via cyclotrons; gamma ray bombardment via exposure to cobalt-60;
neutron bombardment via the piles of nuclear reactors; and electron bombardment
via Van de Graaff generators. These high-energy particles physically alter the
diamond's crystal lattice, knocking carbon atoms out of place and producing
color centers. Irradiated diamonds are all some shade of green, black, or blue
after treatment, but most are annealed to further modify their color into bright
shades of yellow, orange, brown, or pink. The annealing process increases the
mobility of individual carbon atoms, allowing some of the lattice defects
created during irradiation to be corrected. The final color is dependent on the
diamond's composition and the temperature and length of annealing.
Cyclotroned diamonds have a green to blue-green color confined to the surface
layer: they are later annealed to 800 °C to produce a yellow or orange color.
They remain radioactive for only a few hours after treatment, and due to the
directional nature of the treatment and the cut of the stones, the color is
imparted in discrete zones. If the stone was cyclotroned through the pavilion
(back), a characteristic "umbrella" of darker color will be seen through the
crown (top) of the stone. If the stone was cyclotroned through the crown, a dark
ring is seen around the girdle (rim). Stones treated from the side will have one
half colored deeper than the other. Cyclotron treatment is now uncommon.
Gamma ray treatment is also uncommon, because although it is the safest and
cheapest irradiation method, successful treatment can take several months. The
color produced is a blue to blue-green which penetrates the whole stone. Such
diamonds are not annealed. The blue color can sometimes approach that of natural
Type IIb diamonds, but the two are distinguished by the latter's semiconductive
properties. As with most irradiated diamonds, most gamma ray-treated diamonds
were originally tinted yellow; the blue is usually modified by this tint,
resulting in a perceptible greenish cast.
The two most common irradiation methods are neutron and electron bombardment.
The former treatment produces a green to black color that penetrates the whole
stone, while the latter treatment produces a blue, blue-green, or green color
that only penetrates about 1 millimeter deep. Annealing of these stones (from
500–900 °C for neutron-bombarded stones and from 500–1200 °C for
electron-bombarded stones) produces orange, yellow, brown, or pink. Blue to
blue-green stones that are not annealed are separated from natural stones in the
same manner as gamma ray-treated stones.
Prior to annealing, nearly all irradiated diamonds possess a characteristic
absorption spectrum consisting of a fine line in the far red, at 741 nm — this
is known as the GR1 line and is usually considered a strong indication of
treatment. Subsequent annealing usually destroys this line, but creates several
new ones; the most persistent of these is at 595 nm.
It should be noted that some irradiated diamonds are completely natural. One
famous example is the Dresden Green Diamond. In these natural stones the color
is imparted by "radiation burns" in the form of small patches, usually only skin
deep, as is the case in radium-treated diamonds. Naturally irradiated diamonds
also possess the GR1 line. The largest known irradiated diamond is the Deepdene.

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